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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the manifold air temperature (MAT) sensor electrical connector the air intake tube.
3. Remove all the clamps from the air cleaner outlet hose, and set aside the tube.



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4. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
5. Disconnect the harness connector from the back of the generator, and the generator lead to the battery.
6. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt by lowering the vehicle and turning the automatic tensioner roller bolt clockwise to relieve tension on the belt. Refer to Section 6B, Power Steering Pump.
7. Push up the power steering reservoir and set it aside.



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8. Remove the bolt of the generator upper engine connecting bracket to the 1.4L/1.6L engine.



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9. For vehicles equipped with the 1.8L engine, remove the generator upper mounting bolts to the intake manifold/cylinder head support bracket, the intake manifold strap bracket, and the intake manifold-to-cylinder body strap bracket.



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10. Raise and suitably support the vehicle and remove the nut and washers which hold the generator lower bracket-to-generator bolt. Work the bolt loose and remove the generator.



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11. For vehicles equipped with the 1.8L engine, remove the generator lower support bracket bolts.
12. Carefully remove the generator with the lower bracket attached for the 1.8L engine only.
13. Remove the generator lower support bracket nut, the bolt, and the washer.

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1. Install the generator to the generator lower bracket and insert the generator bolt.
2. Install the nut and washers on the generator lower bracket-to-generator bolt on the 1.4L/1.6L DOHC engines.
Tighten
Tighten the generator lower bracket-to-generator nut to 25 N•m (18 lb-ft).




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3. Install the generator and the lower support bracket assembly to the 1.8L engine block (as shown).
Tighten
Tighten the generator and the lower bracket-to-engine block bolts to 45 N•m (33 lb-ft).




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4. For vehicles equipped with the 1.8L engine (shown), install the generator-to-intake manifold and cylinder head support bracket bolts, the generator-to-intake manifold strap bracket bolt, and the intake manifold-to-cylinder body strap bracket bolts over the starter.
Tighten
Tighten the generator-to-intake manifold and cylinder head support bracket bolts to 25 N•m (18 lb-ft). Tighten the generator-to-intake manifold strap bracket bolt and the intake manifold-to-cylinder body strap bracket bolts to 25 N•m (18 lb-ft).




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5. For vehicles with the 1.4L/1.6L engine, install the upper generator support bracket bolt and the washer.
Tighten
Tighten the generator upper support bracket bolt to 20 N•m (15 lb-ft).


6. Connect the harness connector to the back of the generator, and the generator lead to the battery.



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7. Route the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Section 6B, Power Steering Pump.
8. Relieve tension on the belt by first applying downward pressure on the automatic tension roller bolt and releasing pressure once the belt is in place.
9. Install the power steering reservoir.



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10. Install the air cleaner outlet hose and connect the MAT electrical connector.
11. Connect the negative battery cable.

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1. Remove the nut which secures the starter ground wire to the lower mounting stud and remove the ground wire.
2. Remove the lower starter stud/weld nut assembly (1.4L/1.6L engine).
3. For vehicles equipped with the 1.8L engine, remove the starter-to-engine block mounting bolt and the starter-to-transmission mounting bolt.



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4. Remove the starter solenoid nuts to disconnect the electrical cable.
5. Remove the starter assembly.

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1. Place the starter assembly in position using an assistant to prop up the starter to aid in screwing in the upper stud with the weld nut.
2. Install the upper and the lower starter mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the starter mounting studs to 23 N•m (16 lb ft).


3. Install the starter mounting bolts (1.8L engine).
Tighten
Tighten the starter-to-engine block mounting bolt to 45 N•m (33 lb-ft) and the starter-to-engine transaxle mounting bolt to 50 N•m (37 lb-ft).




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4. Position the starter electrical wire on the solenoid terminals and the ground wire on the lower stud.
5. Install the starter solenoid nuts and the ground wire nut.
Tighten
Tighten the starter solenoid terminal-to-battery cable terminal nut to 5.5 N•m (49 lb-in), and the starter solenoid terminal-to-ignition solenoid terminal nut to 5.5 N•m (49 lb-in).
Tighten the starter lower mounting stud ground wire nut to 12 N•m (106 lb-in).

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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and then disconnect the positive battery cable.
2. Remove the nuts from the battery rods that fasten the battery hold-down bar clamp.



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3. Check the battery carrier tray for obvious cracks or damage. Unclip the lead to the negative battery cable from the side of the battery tray (if applicable). Detach the carrier tray if necessary by removing the upper battery carrier tray bolts, and the side bolt that connects the hydraulic clutch hose bracket to the battery carrier tray (if applicable).
4. Remove the lower battery tray bolts.

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1. Install the battery carrier by fastening the carrier tray upper, lower, and side bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the battery carrier tray upper, lower and side bolts (if applicable) to 20 N•m (15 lb-ft).


2. Push in the clip of the negative battery lead to the hole in the side of the battery tray (if applicable and as shown).



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3. Install the battery into the tray.
4. Fasten the bar clamp to the battery by loosely attaching the battery rods from the battery tray cutouts through the bar clamp holes, and loosely tightening the nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the battery retainer clamp-to-battery rod nuts to 5 N•m (44 lb-in).




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5. Connect the negative and the positive battery cables.
Tighten
Tighten the battery cable nuts to 5 N•m (44 lb-in).

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1. Remove the starter. Refer to "Starter" in this section.
2. Remove the starter through-bolts.



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3. Remove the commutator end frame and brush holder assembly.
4. Inspect the brushes, the pop-out springs, and the brush holders for wear and damage. Replace the assembly, if needed.



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5. Check the armature to see if it turns freely. If the armature does not turn freely, break down the assembly immediately, starting with Step 14. Otherwise, give the armature a no-load test.



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Notice : Complete the testing in a minimum amount of time to prevent overheating and damaging the solenoid.
Important : If the specified current draw does not include the solenoid, deduct from the armature reading the specified current draw of the solenoid hold-in winding.
6. To begin the no-load test, close the switch and compare the rpm, the current, and the voltage readings with the specifications. Refer to "Starter Specifications" in this section. Make disconnections only with the switch open. Use the test results as follows:
1. Rated current draw and no-load speed indicate a normal condition for the starter motor.
2. Low rpm combined with high current draw is an indication of excessive friction caused by tight, dirty, or worn bearings; a bent armature shaft; a shorted armature; or a shorted field coils.
3. Failure to operate with high current draw indicates a direct ground in the terminal or fields, or "frozen" bearings.
4. Failure to operate with no current draw indicates an open field circuit, open armature coils, broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation between the commutator bars, or other causes which would prevent good contact between the brushes and the commutator.
5. Low, no-load speed and low current indicate high internal resistance and high current draw, which usually mean shorted fields.



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7. Remove the solenoid assembly screws.



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8. Remove the field connector nut. Disconnect the field connector.



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9. Remove the plunger return spring.



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Important : If the solenoid is not removed from the starting motor, the connector strap terminals must be removed from the terminal on the solenoid before making these tests.
10. Test the solenoid windings by checking the current draw.
1. Check the hold-in windings by connecting an ammeter in series with a 12-volt battery, the switch terminal, and to ground.
2. Connect the carbon pile across the battery.
3. Adjust the voltage to 10 volts. The ammeter reading should be 13 to 19 amperes.Current will decrease as the windings heat up. Current draw readings that are over specifications indicate shorted turns or a ground in the windings of the solenoid. Both conditions require replacement of the solenoid. Current draw readings that are under specifications indicate excessive resistance. No reading indicates an open circuit.
Important : Current will decrease as the windings heat up. Current draw readings that are over specifications indicate shorted turns or a ground in the windings of the solenoid. Both conditions require replacement of the solenoid. Current draw readings that are under specifications indicate excessive resistance. No reading indicates an open circuit.
11. Check both windings, connecting them according to the preceding test.
1. Ground the solenoid motor terminal.
2. Adjust the voltage to 10 volts. The ammeter reading should be 59 to 79 amperes.
3. Check the connections and replace the solenoid, if necessary.



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12. Slide the field frame with enclosed armature assembly away from the starter assembly.
13. Remove the shield.



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14. Separate the field frame from the armature.



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15. Inspect the shaft and the pinion for discoloration, damage, or wear. Replace, if necessary.
16. Inspect the armature commutator. If the commutator is rough, it should be turned down. The outside diameter of the commutator must measure at least 26.9 - 27.1mm (1.059 - 1.067 in.) after it is undercut or turned. Do not turn out-of-round commutators.
17. Inspect the points where the armature conductors join the commutator bars. Make sure they have a good connection. A burned commutator bar is usually evidence of a poor connection.
18. If test equipment is available, check the armature for short circuits by placing it on a growler, and holding back a saw blade over the armature core while the armature is rotated. If the saw blade vibrates, replace the armature.
19. Recheck the armature after cleaning between the commutator bars. If the saw blade vibrates, replace the armature.



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20. Remove the locking ring from the groove in the driveshaft.



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21. Remove the pinion stop and the drive from the driveshaft.



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22. If not done in the previous steps, remove the screws that hold the solenoid assembly into the housing, and remove the nut from the field coil connector.



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23. Rotate the solenoid 90 degrees and remove it along with the return spring.



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24. Remove the plunger with the boot and the shift lever assembly. Test the solenoid windings, if not done in Step 11.



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Important : The pinion clearance must be correct to prevent the buttons on the shift lever yoke from rubbing on the clutch collar during the cranking.
25. When the starter motor is disassembled and the solenoid is replaced, it is necessary to check the pinion clearance.



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26. Disconnect the motor field coil connector from the solenoid motor terminal and carefully insulate the connector.
27. Connect one 12-volt battery lead to the solenoid switch terminal and the other to the starter frame.
28. Flash a jumper lead momentarily from the solenoid motor terminal to the starter frame, allowing shifting of the pinion in the cranking position, where it will remain until the battery is disconnected.
Important : A means for adjusting the pinion clearance is not provided on the starter motor. If the clearance does not fall within the limits, check for improper installation and replace all worn parts.
29. Push the pinion back as far as possible to take up any movement, and check the clearance with a feeler gauge. The clearance should be 0.25 to 3.56 mm (0.01 to 0.14 inch).

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1. Install the drive and the pinion stop on the driveshaft.



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2. Install the lock ring into the groove on the driveshaft and insert the collar.



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3. Install the shift lever, washer and the cushion.



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4. Lubricate the drive end of the armature shaft with lubricant.



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5. Position the solenoid assembly.



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6. Fasten the solenoid assembly with the screws.
Tighten
Tighten the starter solenoid assembly screws to 8 N•m (71 lb-in).


7. Install the field coil connection to the starter terminal. Install the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the starter field coil connector nut to 8 N•m (71 lb-in).




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8. Position the armature assembly into the field frame.
9. Place the shield on the armature and field frame assembly.
10. Install the armature and field frame assembly with the shield into the starter housing.



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11. Position the commutator end frame/brush holder assembly, lining up the end frame holes with the through-bolt holes in the housing.



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12. Install the starter through-bolts.
13. Install the starter. Refer to "Starter"in this section.
Tighten
Tighten the starter through-bolts to 6 N•m (53 lb-in).

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1. Remove the generator. Refer to "Generator"in the On-Vehicle Service section.
2. Mark a match line that cannot easily be removed on the end frame to make assembly easier.
3. Pry off the plastic cover to expose the stator connections.



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Notice : If the stator connections are not welded, melt the lead. Avoid excessive heating, as it can damage the diodes in the rectifier bridge.
4. Remove the stator connections from the rectifier bridge terminals by cutting the wires.



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5. Pry off the baffle.
6. Remove the rectifier/regulator/brush holder assembly screws.
7. Remove the brush holder assembly and the regulator.
Important : If the brush can be reused, reassmble the brush to the holder with the retaining pin, after cleaning the brush with a soft, clean cloth.



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8. Test the rectifier bridge by connecting the ohmmeter terminals to the brdge and the heat sink.



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9. Retest by connecting the ohmmeter terminals in reverse.



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10. Replace the rectifier bridge, if each reading is the same.
11. Test the remaining two diodes after the above procedure.
Notice : Some kinds of digital ohmmeters are not suited for the test of the bridge diode. In this case, consult the manufacturer regarding the test capacity.
12. Test the diodes by connecting the ohmmeter terminals to the bridge terminal and the base plate. If the reading is the same, the rectifier bridge should be replaced.



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13. Remove the generator through - bolts.



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Important : The fastening torque of this nut is 81 N•m (60 lb-ft) and may not normally be unfastened using hand strength.
14. Move to the drive end of the generator and remove the drive end bearing nut.
15. Remove the pulley and the collars.



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16. Test the rotor for an open circuit using the ohmmeter with the drive end frame assembled. The reading should be sufficiently high, or the rotor must be replaced.



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17. Test the rotor for open and short circuits. The reading should be 1.7 to 2.3 ohms, or the rotor should be replaced.



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18. Remove the drive end frame from the shaft.
19. For vehicles with an internal generator fan, remove the drive end frame and the fan.



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20. Remove the rotor assembly.



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21. Remove the stator.



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22. Test the stator for an open circuit using the ohmmeter.



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23. Remove the ring in the slip ring end frame.

---

1. Install the new ring in the slip ring end frame.
2. Install the stator.



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3. Position the rotor assembly shaft with the drive end frame in the slip ring end assembly until the gap between the outer lace and the end frame casting is 1.9 mm (0.075 inch).
4. Install the generator through-bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the generator through-bolts to 10 N•m (89 lb-in).




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5. Position the fan, the collars, and the pulley on the rotor shaft and secure with the nut.
Tighten
Tighten the generator drive end bearing nut to 81 N•m (60 lb-ft).


6. Install the generator. Refer to "Generator"in the On-Vehicle Service section.



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7. Weld the brush holder terminal to the regulator terminal, if removed.
8. Fix the brush holder with the retainer pin, and weld the regulator/brush holder assembled terminal to the rectifier terminal.
9. Apply silicone grease between the bridge and the end frame for radiation purposes.
10. Fasten the screws holding the rectifier regulator/brush holder assembly to the end frame.
11. Punch the new baffle with the pin into the brush.



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Notice : Take care to prevent damage to the vehicle by protecting the diode in the rectifier bridge from excessive heat while welding.
12. Weld the connectors of the rectifier bridge.

• No water addition for the life of the battery.
• Overcharge protection. If too much voltage is applied to the battery, it will not accept as much current as a conventional battery. In a conventional battery, the excess voltage will still try to charge the battery, leading to gassing, which causes liquid loss.
• Not as liable to self-discharge as compared to a conventional battery. This is particularly important when a battery is left standing for long periods of time.
• More power available in a lighter and smaller case.

• Vehicle accessories are left on overnight.
• Slow average driving speeds are used for short periods.
• The vehicle's electrical load is more than the generator output, particularly with the addition of aftermarket equipment.
• Defects in the charging system, such as electrical shorts, a slipping generator belt, a faulty generator, or a faulty voltage regulator.
• Battery abuse, including failure to keep the battery cable terminals clean and tight, or a loose battery hold-down clamp.
• Mechanical problems in the electrical system, such as shorted or pinched wires.

1. When observing the hydrometer, make sure that the battery has a clean top.
2. Under normal operation, two indications can be observed:
• GREEN DOT VISIBLE - Any green appearance is interpreted as a "green dot," meaning the battery is ready for testing.
• DARK GREEN DOT IS NOT VISIBLE - If there is a cranking complaint, the battery should be tested. The charging and electrical systems should also be checked at this time.

3. Occasionally, a third condition may appear:
4. Occasionally, a third condition may appear:
• CLEAR OR BRIGHT YELLOW - This means the fluid level is below the bottom of the hydrometer. This may have been caused by excessive or prolonged charging, a broken case, excessive tipping, or normal battery wear. Finding a battery in this condition may indicate high charging by a faulty charging system. Therefore, the charging and the electrical systems may need to be checked if a cranking complaint exists. If the cranking complaint is caused by the battery, replace the battery.

1. Batteries with the green dot showing do not require charging unless they have just been discharged (such as in cranking a vehicle).
2. When charging sealed-terminal batteries out of the vehicle, install the adapter kit. Make sure all the charger connections are clean and tight. For best results, batteries should be charged while the electrolyte and the plates are at room temperature. A battery that is extremely cold may not accept current for several hours after starting the charger.
3. Charge the battery until the green dot appears. The battery should be checked every half-hour while charging. Tipping or shaking the battery may be necessary to make the green dot appear.
4. After charging, the battery should be load tested. Refer to "Starter Motor" in this section.

• Size of Battery - A completely discharged large heavy-duty battery requires more than twice the recharging time as a completely discharged small passenger car battery.
• Temperature - A longer time will be needed to charge any battery at -18°C (0°F) than at 27°C (80°F). When a fast charger is connected to a cold battery, the current accepted by the battery will be very low at first. The battery will accept a higher current rate as the battery warms.
• Charger Capacity - A charger which can supply only 5 amperes will require a much longer charging period than a charger that can supply 30 amperes or more.
• State-of-Charge - A completely discharged battery requires more than twice as much charge as a one-half charged battery. Because the electrolyte is nearly pure water and a poor conductor in a completely discharged battery, the current accepted by the battery is very low at first. Later, as the charging current causes the electrolyte acid content to increase, the charging current will likewise increase.

1. Measure the voltage at the battery terminals with an accurate voltmeter. If the reading is below 10 volts, the charge current will be very low, and it could take some time before the battery accepts the current in excess of a few milliamperes. Refer to " "Charging Time Required" in this section, which focuses on the factors affecting both the charging time required and the rough estimates in the table below. Such low current may not be detectable on ammeters available in the field.
2. Set the battery charger on the high setting.

3. Continue to charge the battery until the charge current is measurable. Battery chargers vary in the amount of voltage and current provided. The time required for the battery to accept a measurable charge current at various voltages may be as follows:
4. Continue to charge the battery until the charge current is measurable. Battery chargers vary in the amount of voltage and current provided. The time required for the battery to accept a measurable charge current at various voltages may be as follows:

Voltage	Hours
16.0 or more	Up to 4 hours
14.0-15.9	Up to 8 hours
13.9 or less	Up to 16 hours

• If the charge current is not measurable at the end of the above charging times, the battery should be replaced.
• If the charge current is measurable during the charging time, the battery is good, and charging should be completed in the normal manner.

• If the charge current is still not measurable after using the charging time calculated by the above method, the battery should be replaced.

1. Position the vehicle with the good (charged) battery so that the jumper cables will reach.
2. Turn off the ignition, all the lights, and all the electrical loads in both vehicles. Leave the hazard flasher on if jump starting where there may be other traffic and any other lights needed for the work area.
3. In both vehicles, apply the parking brake firmly.

4. Shift an automatic transaxle to PARK, or a manual transaxle to NEUTRAL.
5. Shift an automatic transaxle to PARK, or a manual transaxle to NEUTRAL.

5. Clamp one end of the first jumper cable to the positive terminal on the battery. Make sure it does not touch any other metal parts. Clamp the other end of the same cable to the positive terminal on the other battery. Never connect the other end to the negative terminal of the discharged battery.
6. Clamp one end of the first jumper cable to the positive terminal on the battery. Make sure it does not touch any other metal parts. Clamp the other end of the same cable to the positive terminal on the other battery. Never connect the other end to the negative terminal of the discharged battery.

6. Clamp one end of the second cable to the negative terminal of the booster battery. Make the final connection to a solid engine ground (such as the engine lift bracket) at least 450 millimeters (18 inches) from the discharged battery.
7. Clamp one end of the second cable to the negative terminal of the booster battery. Make the final connection to a solid engine ground (such as the engine lift bracket) at least 450 millimeters (18 inches) from the discharged battery.
8. Start the engine of the vehicle with the good battery. Run the engine at a moderate speed for several minutes. Then start the engine of the vehicle which has the discharged battery.
9. Remove the jumper cables by reversing the above sequence exactly. Remove the negative cable from the vehicle with the discharged battery first. While removing each clamp, take care that it does not touch any other metal while the other end remains attached.