Service Manual2006 Nubira-Lacetti ENGINE ELECTRICAL

SECTION 1E

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

Caution : Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing or installing any electrical unit or when a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with exposed electrical terminals. Disconnecting this cable will help prevent personal injury and damage to the vehicle. The ignition must also be in LOCK unless otherwise noted.

SPECIFICATIONS

Starter Specifications

Description	Unit	Standard
Type	-	Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction
Output (Capacity)	kW	1.2
No Load test@ (12) volts drive pinion Speed	A RPM	90 Max 2,600 Min
Brushes length	mm (in.)	8.25 (0.325)

Generator Specifications

Description	Unit	Standard
Type	-	CS121D O/B
Rejulator Voltage	V	14.6
Brushes Length	mm (in.)	18.8
Output (Capacity)	-	85A

Battery Specifications

Description	Unit	Standard
Capacity	AH	55
Cold Cranks Amps	CCA	610
Reserve Capacity Minimum	min	90
Load Test	amps	300
Minimum Voltage:	.	.
9.6 9.5 9.4 9.3 9.1 8.9 8.7 8.5	V V V V V V V V	70°F (21°C) and above 60°F (15.6°C) 50°F (10°C) 40°F (4.4°C) 30°F (-1.1°C) 20°F (-6.7°C) 10°F (-12.2°C) 0°F (-17.8°C)

Fastener Tightening Specifications

Application	N•m	Lb-Ft	Lb-In
Battery Cable Nuts	5	-	44
Battery Carrier Tray Lower, Side and Upper Bolts	20	15	-
Battery Retainer Clamp-to-Battery Rod Nuts	5	-	44
Generator Drive End Bearing Nut	81	60	-
Generator Lower Bracket-to-Engine Block Bolts (1.8L Engine)	45	33	-
Generator Lower Bracket-to-Generator Nut (1.4L/1.6L Engine)	25	18	-
Generator Through-Bolts	10	-	89
Generator-to-Intake Manifold and Cylinder Head Support Bracket Bolts (1.8L Engine)	25	18	-
Generator-to-Intake Manifold Strap Bracket Bolt (1.8L Engine)	22	16	-
Generator Upper Support Bracket Bolt (1.4L/1.6L Engine)	20	15	-
Intake Manifold-to-Cylinder Body Strap Bracket Bolts (Over Starter)	22	16	-
Starter Field Connector Nut	12	-	106
Starter Lower Mounting Stud Ground Wire Nut	12	-	106
Starter Mounting Studs/Nuts (1.4L/1.6L Engine)	25	18	-
Starter Solenoid Assembly Screws	8	-	71
Starter Solenoid Terminal-to-Battery Cable Terminal Nut	5.5	-	49
Starter Solenoid Terminal-to-Ignition Solenoid Terminal Nut	5.5	-	49
Starter Through-Bolts	6	-	53
Starter-to-Engine Block Mounting Bolt (1.8L Engine)	45	33	-
Starter-to-Engine Transaxle Mounting Bolt (1.8L Engine)	50	37	-

SCHEMATIC AND ROUTING DIAGRAMS

Startimg System

Charging System

DIAGNOSIS

No Crank

Step	Action	Value(s)	Yes	No
1	Turn the headlamps ON. Turn the dome lamps ON. Turn the ignition to START. Did the lights dim or go out?	-	Go to Step 2	Go to Step 8
2	Check the battery state of charge. Is the green eye showing from the built-in hydrometer?	-	Go to Step 3	Go to "Charging Procedure"
3	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the positive battery terminal. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	< 9.6 v	Go to "Charging Procedure"	Go to Step 4
4	Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the engine block. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	> 0.5 v	Go to Step 5	Go to Step 6
5	Clean, tighten, or replace the negative battery cable. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
6	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter "B+" terminal. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	< 9 v	Go to Step 7	Go to Step 13
7	Clean, tighten, or replace the positive battery cable. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
8	Inspect the engine fuse block fuse Ef5. Is the fuse OK?	-	Go to Step 10	Go to Step 9
9	Inspect the engine fuse block fuse Ef4. Is the fuse OK?	-	System OK	-
10	Check the connection at the starter "ST" terminal. Is the connection OK?	-	Go to Step 12	Go to Step 11
11	Clean or tighten the connection as needed. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
12	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter "ST" terminal. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	< 7 v	Go to Step 13	Go to Step 14
13	Repair or replace the starter as needed. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
14	Determine the type of transaxle on the vehicle. Is the vehicle equipped with an automatic transaxle?	-	Go to Step 15	Go to Step 32
15	Disconnect the neutral safety back-up (PNP) switch. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the PNP switch connector terminal E. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to battery positive. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 16	Go to Step 19
16	Jumper the PNP switch connector terminals 9 and 10. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the ignition switch. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to battery positive. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 17	Go to Step 18
17	Replace the neutral safety backup switch. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
18	Repair the wire as needed. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
19	Repair the open wire between the PNP switch connector terminal E and ground. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
20	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 3 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 22	Go to Step 21
21	Repair the open in the wiring between the engine block fuse Ef5 and the ignition switch connector terminal 2. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
22	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 3 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 23	Go to Step 27
23	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 3 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 25	Go to Step 24
24	Repair the open in the wiring between the engine block fuse Ef5 and the ignition switch connector terminal 3. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
25	Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ignition switch connector terminal 3 by backprobing the connector. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to ground. Turn the ignition to START. Does the voltmeter indicate the value specified?	11-14 v	Go to Step 26	Go to Step 27
26	Repair the open in the wiring between the ignition switch connector terminal 3 and the starter "ST" terminal. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-
27	Replace the ignition switch. Is the repair complete?	-	System OK	-

Starter Motor Noise

To correct starter motor noise during starting, use the following procedure:

Checks	Action
Check for a high-pitched whine during cranking, before the engine fires. The engine cranks and fires properly.	The distance is too great between the starter pinion and the flywheel. Shimming the starter toward the flywheel is required.
Check for a high-pitched whine after the engine fires, as the key is being released. The engine cranks and fires properly. This intermittent complaint is often diagnosed as "starter hang-in" or "solenoid weak."	The distance is too small between the starter pinion and the flywheel. Shimming the starter away from the flywheel is required.
Check for a loud "whoop" after the engine fires but while the starter is still held engaged. The sound is like a siren if the engine is revved while the starter is engaged.	The most probable cause is a defective clutch. A new clutch will often correct this problem.
Check for a "rumble," a "growl," or, in severe cases, a "knock" as the starter is coasting down to a stop after starting the engine.	The most probable cause is a bent or unbalanced starter armature. A new armature will often correct this problem.

If the complaint is noise, correction can be achieved by proper shimming as follows:

Check for a bent or a worn flywheel.
Start the engine and carefully touch the outside diameter of the rotating flywheel ring gear with chalk or a crayon to show the high point of the tooth runout. Turn the engine OFF and rotate the flywheel so that the marked teeth are in the area of the starter pinion gear.
Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent cranking the engine.
Check the pinion-to-flywheel clearance by using a wire gauge of 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) minimum thickness (or diameter). Center a pinion tooth between two flywheel teeth and the gauge. Do not gauge in the corners, where a misleading larger dimension may be observed. If the clearance is under this minimum, shimming the starter away from the flywheel is required.
If the clearance approaches 1.5 mm (0.06 inch) or more, shimming the starter toward the flywheel is required. This condition is generally the cause of broken flywheel teeth or the starter housing. Shim the starter toward the flywheel by shimming only the outboard starter mounting pad. A shim of 0.40 mm (0.016 inch) thickness at this location will decrease the clearance by approximately 0.30 mm (0.012 inch). If normal starter shims are not available, plain washers or other suitable material may be used as shims.

Battery Load Test

Check the battery for obvious damage, such as a cracked or broken case or cover, which could permit the loss of electrolyte. If obvious damage is noted, replace the battery.
Check the battery for obvious damage, such as a cracked or broken case or cover, which could permit the loss of electrolyte. If obvious damage is noted, replace the battery.

Caution : Do not charge the battery if the hydrometer is clear or light yellow. Instead, replace the battery. If the battery feels hot, or if violent gassing or spewing of electrolyte through the vent hole occurs, discontinue charging or reduce the charging rate to avoid personal injury.

Check the hydrometer. If the green dot is visible, go to the load test procedure. If the indicator is dark but green is not visible, charge the battery. For charging a battery removed from the vehicle, refer to "Charging a Completely Discharged Battery" in this section.
Check the hydrometer. If the green dot is visible, go to the load test procedure. If the indicator is dark but green is not visible, charge the battery. For charging a battery removed from the vehicle, refer to "Charging a Completely Discharged Battery" in this section.
Connect a voltmeter and a battery load tester across the battery terminals.
Apply a 300-ampere load for 15 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.
Remove the load.
Wait 15 seconds to let the battery recover, and apply a 270-ampere load.

Important : The battery temperature must be estimated by touch and by the temperature condition the battery has been exposed for the preceding few hours.

If the voltage does not drop below the minimum listed, the battery is good and should be reinstalled. If the voltage is less than the minimum listed, replace the battery. Refer to "Battery Specifications" in this section.
If the voltage does not drop below the minimum listed, the battery is good and should be reinstalled. If the voltage is less than the minimum listed, replace the battery. Refer to "Battery Specifications" in this section.

Genrator Output Test

Perform the generator system test. Refer to "Generator System Check"in this section.
Perform the generator system test. Refer to "Generator System Check"in this section.
Replace the generator if it fails that test. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service portion of this section. If it passes the test, perform the on-vehicle output check which follows.

Important : Always check the generator for output before assuming that a grounded "L" terminal circuit has damaged the regulator.

Attach a digital multimeter, an ammeter, and a carbon pile load to the vehicle.
Attach a digital multimeter, an ammeter, and a carbon pile load to the vehicle.

Important : Be sure the vehicle battery is fully charged, and the carbon pile load is turned off.

With the ignition switch in the OFF position, check and record the battery voltage.
With the ignition switch in the OFF position, check and record the battery voltage.
Remove the harness connector from the generator.
Turn the ignition to RUN with the engine not running. Use a digital multimeter to check for voltage in the harness connector "L" terminal.
The reading should be near the specified battery voltage of 12 volts. If the voltage is too low, check the indicator “L” terminal circuits for open and grounded circuits causing voltage loss. Correct any open wires, terminal connections, etc., as necessary. Refer to "Charging System" in this section.
Attach the generator harness connector.
Run the engine at a moderate idle, and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. The reading should be above that recorded in step 14, but less than 16 volts. If the reading is over 16 volts or below the previous reading, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service section.
Run the engine at a moderate idle, and measure the generator amperage output.
Turn on the carbon pile, and adjust it to obtain the maximum amps while maintaining the battery voltage above 13 volts.
If the reading is within 15 amps of the generator’s rating noted on the generator, the generator is good. If not, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service section.
With the generator operating at the maximum output, measure the voltage between the generator housing and the battery negative terminal. The voltage drop should be 0.5 volt or less. If the voltage drop is more than 0.5 volt, check the ground path from the generator housing to the negative battery cable.
Check, clean, tighten, and recheck all of the ground connections.

Generator System Check

When operating normally, the generator indicator lamp will come on when the ignition is in RUN position and go out when the engine starts. If the lamp operates abnormally or if an undercharged or overcharged battery condition occurs, the following procedure may be used to diagnose the charging system. Remember that an undercharged battery is often caused by accessories being left on overnight or by a defective switch that allows a lamp, such as a trunk or a glove box lamp, to stay on.

Diagnose the generator with the following procedure:

Visually check the belt and the wiring.
With the ignition in the ON position and the engine stopped, the charge indicator lamp should be on. If not, detach the harness at the generator and ground the "L" terminal in the harness with a 5-ampere jumper lead.

If the lamp lights, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service section.
If the lamp does not light, locate the open circuit between the ignition switch and the harness connector. The indicator lamp bulb may be burned out.

With the ignition switch in the ON position and the engine running at moderate speed, the charge indicator lamp should be off. If not, detach the wiring harness at the generator.
With the ignition switch in the ON position and the engine running at moderate speed, the charge indicator lamp should be off. If not, detach the wiring harness at the generator.

If the lamp goes off, replace the generator. Refer to "Generator" in the On-Vehicle Service section.
If the lamp stays on, check for a short to ground in the harness between the connector and the indicator lamp.

Important : Always check the generator for output before assuming that a grounded "L" terminal circuit has damaged the regulator. Refer to "Generator" in the Unit Repair section.